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Visas
All visitors, except citizens of Malaysia, Singapore, Philippines, Laos, Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam need a visa to enter Cambodia. The official price for a tourist visa is US$20, and US$25 for a business visa – but expect much higher prices (US$30 or more for the tourist visa) to be demanded at land border crossings.

Visas can be obtained at any Cambodian embassy or consulate overseas. Visas are also available “on arrival” at both international airports, all six international border crossings with Thailand, some international border crossings with Vietnam, and at the main border crossing with Laos.

Tourist visa: when applied for in advance, these are valid for 90 days (i.e must be used within 3 months), and good for a 30 day entry permit stamp which can be extended once only for a further 30 days in Phnom Penh (or elsewhere via agencies) at a cost of US$41.
Business visa: the best choice for stays over two months and/or multiple entries, as they can be extended indefinitely (approx US$ 71 per 3 months, US$145 per 6 months and US$272 per 1 year extension ) and have multiple entry status when extended. Most Phnom Penh travel agencies process the extensions (Lucky Internet Travel and Tour).
To apply for a visa, you will need one or two (depending on where you apply) passport-size photo(s), a passport which is valid for at least 6 months and has at least one completely blank visa page remaining, passport photocopies when applying at some embassies/consulates (not needed if applying on arrival), and clean US$ notes with which to pay the fee (expect to pay a substantially higher price if paying in a local currency).

In Poipet, Cambodia custom officers are known to ask tourists to pay 1000 Baht (about US$30) for a visa on arrival, instead of US$25. Stand firm but stay friendly and keep your smile, they rarely insist it. The penalty for having no photo is usually only US$1-2, but the price is also negotiable.

e-Visa scam?

The original provider of the e-Visa service was kicked out in murky circumstances, and their site now rails against the evils of the new provider. However, travellers who have obtained e-Visas with the new system report no problems using them.

Alternatively, citizens of most nations can now apply for an e-Visa online. The cost is US$25 (US$20 + US$5 processing charge) instead of the normal US$20, and you get the visa by e-mail in 3 business days. For the e-visa you will need one photograph of yourself. You can scan your passport photo (into .jpg format, please!) or take a passport photograph of yourself with a digital camera. Please take note that e-Visa is currently operated by a private Malaysian Company.

The e-visa will come back as a PDF file. You will then need to print out two copies (one for the entry and one for the exit). After printing out your two copies, cut out the e-visa part and put both copies into your passport.

For those entering by air, the e-Visa is valid at both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap airports. It’s cheaper to get your visa on arrival at either airport. However if you get a visa in advance (online or from an embassy/consulate) you do get to skip two lines at the airport: the line to apply for the visa, and the line at the cashier to pay the fee. Of course, if you checked luggage, you’ll probably have to spend the saved time waiting for your bag.

For those entering overland, do note that overland e-Visa entries are restricted to just three border crossings: Bavet (Svay Rieng) from Moc Bai (Tay Ninh Province, Vietnam); Koh Kong (from Hat Lek / Trat, Thailand); and Poipet (from Aranyaprathet, Thailand). However getting a visa in advance (online or from an embassy/consulate) is definitely the way to go in order to avoid the common scam of visa overpricing at border crossings (see Scam alert).

If you don’t have a passport photo at visa on arrival in Phnom Penh airport (and possibly other entry points), they will scan in the one on your passport for an extra $2.

If you are a foreign national, be aware that you will have to pay an airport departure tax when you leave Cambodia through the airports, about $25 for international flights, it is about $4-6 for internal flights between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

By plane
 
International departure tax

From both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, the surcharge is a steep US$25 for adults and US$13 for children 12 and under. The tax is not included in your flight ticket.

Cambodia has international airports at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

Direct flights connect Phnom Penh International Airport with China (Guangzhou Hong Kong Shanghai), Laos (Vientiane), Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur), Singapore, South Korea (Incheon/Seoul), Taiwan (Taipei), Thailand (Bangkok) and Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh City).

Direct flights connect Siem Reap – Angkor International Airport with Laos (Pakse Vientiane), Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur), Singapore, South Korea (Incheon/Seoul), Taiwan (Kaohsiung Taipei), Thailand (Bangkok U-Tapao (Sattahip/Pattaya)) and Vietnam (Hanoi Ho Chi Minh City).

Travellers going specifically to visit the Angkor temple ruins may prefer to use Siem Reap as it’s only a few minutes away from the main sites; however as Bangkok Airways has a monopoly on direct flights between Bangkok and Siem Reap, it’s a lot cheaper to fly to Phnom Penh and to take the bus (or cross overland from Bangkok).

Low-cost carrier Air Asia has introduced flights from Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok to Phnom Penh and Kuala Lumpur to Siem Reap, while Jetstar Asia has begun flying from Singapore to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.

Other airlines operating flights to/from Cambodia include Asiana Airlines, Bangkok Airways, China Southern Airlines, Dragonair, Eva Airways, Korean Air, Lao Airlines, Malaysia Airlines (MAS), Shanghai Airlines, Siem Reap Airways (a subsidiary of Bangkok Airways), SilkAir , Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways International, and Vietnam Airlines.

By road

From Thailand
All six international border crossings are open 7 AM to 8 PM and all have visa-on-arrival facilities at the Cambodian immigration checkpoints.

On the Thai side, there are good sealed roads to all 6 crossings. There are no direct bus services from Thailand that cross the border, but there are buses to all crossings except Chong Sa-Ngam.

On the Cambodian side, more basic and less frequent bus services are available from Poipet and Koh Kong.

To Siem Reap & Battambang – see the Aranyaprathet and Poipet articles for more details
The busiest land crossing into Cambodia, and the most convenient for onward travel to Siem Reap and the Angkor Archaeological Park. Long the stuff of nightmares, the road has finally been paved all the way from the border to Sieam Reap and Phnom Penh.

To Koh Kong & Sihanoukville – see the Hat Lek and Koh Kong articles for more details
Take a bus to Trat (transfer in Chanthaburi if necessary) and from there a minibus to the border. After crossing into Cambodia there are two possibilities – the once-daily boat to Sihanoukville (can be unpleasant in adverse weather), or else a minibus or taxi to either Sihanoukville or Phnom Penh.

Those with a yen for adventure can try out the four other international crossings:

Chong Sa-Ngam, Si Saket Province – Anlong Veng
Chong Jom, Surin Province – O’Smach
To Siem Reap- Take the minibus from Surin bus station to the border. Once you cross the border, you are in the middle of nowhere,and there are not currently any buses direct from the border. A taxi can be hired for the 5 hour journey to Siem Reap, most of it very bumpy. However you will get a great and unique insight into rural Cambodian life away from tourist areas. Be warned, this journey can be difficult during the rainy season.
Ban Pakard, Chanthaburi Province – Phra Prom, near Pailin
Ban Leam, Chanthaburi Province – Daun Lem, the geographically closest crossing to Battambang

From Vietnam
Ho Chi Minh City – Phnom Penh
Through bus tickets cost ~USD$10-12. Bus passengers must walk between the Cambodian and Vietnamese checkpoints and transfer between the two buses that travel the Cambodian and Vietnamese legs respectively. At this crossing only one passport photo is required for a Cambodian visa.

Alternatively, it can be interesting to join a Mekong Delta tour (2-3 days) that travels between the two cities; the total cost is about US$25-35 for three days.

Ho Chi Minh City – Siem Reap
Mai Linh Taxi Company in Ho Chi Minh City provides bus from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap directly from beginning of 2007. The price is US$18.

Ho Chi Minh City – Kampong Cham
It is possible to cross at the Trapeang Phlong – Xa Mat border but as of now you have to organise your own transport.

Pleiku – Banlung
It is now possible to cross the border at O Yadaw near Pleiku. Cambodian visas are available on arrival. You can get a motorbike taxi to the border from Duc Co on the Vietnamese side, but there is no regular transport available on the Cambodian side. It maybe possible to hitch a ride with the border officials, though.

From Laos
Voeung Kam, Laos – Dom Kralor, Cambodia
Onward transportation not regularly available. Cambodian visas available, but expect 1$ to 2$ of transaction fees on both sides of the border. Travel agencies on both sides have border crossing packages.

By boat

To/from Laos – There is one border crossing for tourists on the Mekong, a 90 minute speedboat ride north of Stung Treng. The border guards have few opportunities for “alternative” income, and will usually try to make a few extra dollars from scamming tourists.

To/from Thailand – There are no ferry services between Cambodia and Thailand. However it is possible to cross the border from Thailand to Koh Kong on foot, take a 15 minute share taxi or motodop (motorbike taxi) ride, and then proceed to Sihanoukville by ferry from there (or vice-versa).

To/from Vietnam – It’s possible to travel between Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh by boat, or by combination of road and boat. Fast boats leave daily from Chau Doc in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta and take 5 hours to reach Phnom Penh. Chau Doc is a four hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City. A popular overland route is to make a three day trip, stopping at Can Tho and Chau Doc before taking the boat to Phnom Penh.

Get Around

By plane

Domestic departure tax
From both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, the domestic departure tax is US$12.

The domestic aviation scene in Cambodia is in a permanent state of flux.

The only airports currently operating scheduled passenger flights are Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The third major airport, Sihanoukville, which in the past has seen some activity, is expected to start receiving scheduled flights again in early 2010.

The new kid on the block is Cambodia Angkor Air, a joint venture between the government and Vietnam Airlines, which flies between Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam).

A non-commercial provider of services is Mission Aviation Fellowship which operates flights to Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri, Stung Treng and other destinations. Aid workers and medical cases have priority but seats may be available.

By helicopter

Helistar Cambodia, a VIP helicopter charter and scenic flights company, operate to virtually anywhere in Cambodia. Helicopters can be chartered to fly from Phnom Penh and Siem Reap for one-way or return journeys. The basic hourly charter rate is US$1499 per flight hour plus 10% VAT and 10% SPT. They operate modern, air-conditioned French-built Eurocopter Ecureuils with luxury leather seating for up to 5 passengers. They also have licensed Australian and foreign pilots. A pick-up and set-down transfer service is also available at both international airports.

By road

The three main routes to Phnom Penh (from Siem Reap, Sisophon, and Sihanoukville) are all sealed and in good condition. National Route #7 from Stung Treng to Phnom Penh (Skuon) is in good condition, paved between Kratie and Phnom Penh, partly paved and partly gravel between Stung Treng and Kratie, but well maintained, even in the wet season. Most other roads are unpaved dirt; many are in abysmal condition, others are maintained fairly regularly (but fall apart with alarming speed in the wet season). On the unsealed routes, overloaded trucks do a good job of smashing poorly built bridges. In all, buffer your schedule and expect delays when travelling around the country, especially on the dirt roads, and doubly so in the wet season.

MONEY
Cambodia’s currency is the Riel, abbreviated in the guide by a lower-case ‘R’ written after the sum. Cambodia’s second currency (some would say it’s first) is the US dollar, which is accepted everywhere and by everyone, though change may arrive in Riel. 1US$ = 4000R

ATMs
There are now credit-card-compatible ATMs (Visa and MasterCard only) in most major cities including Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville, Kampot, Battambang and Kampong Cham.

CLIMATE
Life in Cambodia is fairly steamy in the low land, with a classic tropical climate. It gets a little cooler up in the hills of the northeast, but even there it rarely gets cold. Average daily temperatures range from the high 20s in the ‘cool’ season of December and January, to the high 30s and beyond in the hot months of April and May. The rain kicks in around June and falls thick and fast throughout August an September, bringing the landscape back to life ready for a new harvest.

HEALTH
Your health is more of a concern in Cambodia than most other parts of Southeast Asia, due to poor sanitation and a lack of effective medical treatment facilities. Once you venture into rural areas you are very much on your own, although most towns have a reasonable clinic these days.

RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
Plan ahead for getting your vaccinations some of them require more than one injection over a period of time, while other should not be given together. Note that some vaccinations should not be given during pregnancy or to people with allergies.
It is recommended that you seek medical advice at least six weeks before travel. Be aware that there is often a greater risk of disease during pregnancy and among children.
Record all vaccinations on an International Certificate of Vaccination, available from your doctor. It is a good idea to carry this as proof of your vaccinations when traveling in Cambodia.

HEALTH CARE
Self-diagnosis and treatment of health problems can be risky, so you should always seek professional medical help. Although we do give drug dosages in this section, they are for emergency use only. Correct diagnosis is vital.
An embassy, consulate or five-star hotel can usually recommend a local doctor or clinic (as SOS in Phnom Penh).

ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation in Cambodia has improved immensely during the past decade and everything is available, from the classic budget crash pad to the plush palace. Most hotels quote in US dollars.